have recently returned to the top of the Campanile Basso di Brenta Dolomites. We reached the summit via the corner Fox. One of the most beautiful I have ever repeated. Now a leggiucchiando book on the history of this beautiful mountain I found a few episodes definitely fantastic and poetic at the same time.
From the book "The Campanile Basso - The Story of a mountain" and Gino Marino Stenico Callin:
On August 7, 1937 is another historic day for the Campanile Basso. It enters a strong climber Rovereto: Pino Fox. Pedrotti Refuge is located on the Trent with some skilful climbers: Rizieri Costazza, Alexander and Luigi Golser Deserters. They decide together to go up the Campanile Basso untouched along the south-east. Fox was preparing some for the first time the beautiful bell tower. Path and had retraced many climbing routes, from the "normal" to "Fehrmann" the "Preuss. Yeah, because the "Low" he says, "was the dream of all mountaineers of the time." With Bruno Detassis had spoken several times of that edge: their conclusion was the same: "A rose of exceptional beauty." And Fox had all the credentials to attempt it. the base of the tower there was someone who began to waver, apparently not too convinced of the idea to venture on that affiliate edge. Fox, however, immediately put an end to the discussion in a tone that brooked no reply: "It just goes." None of breath and the four, Fox in the lead, began climbing past the two hundred yards uphill nine nails. The main protagonist reserved undertaking a comment very succinctly: "They are difficult especially the first forty feet, but then the wall becomes increasingly accessible while requiring some ability to balance ..."- Ascension is still evaluated in the fifth grade. The opinion expressed by Fox shows the modesty of this climber whose abilities are highlighted by a successful track record in which stand out as the ascents with Iolanda Punta Friederichsen Cottafari and the south-east wall of the Cima d'Ambiez with Marino Stenico 10 hours of climbing called "exceptional elegance and daring" by Castiglioni, Cima Rocchetta di Ledro Alps, yet with Stenico. climb the rocks overlooking the lake Garda, Fox thought it "the most difficult of his life."
[...]
George Graffer Two companies deserve their place of honor in the history of the Campanile Basso: the first ascent of the direct route to the north ridge 24 August 1933 and the first ascent of the south-west of Spallone in 1934. The first ascent he made with his sister, the second with Antonio Miotto. There is an episode that well expresses the extreme difficulties of that ascension. Giorgio Graffer, you know, used to climb barefoot onto the wall harder. Speaking with Renzo Videsott's said that only ran on Spallone had climbed barefoot for most traits. "So it's sixth, yes or no?" "I just remember that it was especially hard!" "But on the Solleder Civetta, you took the hiking boots?" "No, there was no need." "But then, down from Spallone is sixth grade!" "If you really want to be the sixth ..." the style of Giorgio Graffer climbing is as good as him Marcello Pilati wrote: "I see two fingers wrinkle iron on the rock, slowly relax, leave the grip, find another, almost caressing it at first, then attacking strong and tenacious." And again: "George curls up under the overhang, widens the compass legs, spreads very slowly, without tearing. "
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