a bit 'knows me knows how much esteem for the consortium has Castiglioni / Detassis. These two characters are tied on the rope high number of times and the understanding that it followed was unique in the history of mountaineering.
Together they opened a route very difficult day behind the other. Castiglioni was the first (and certainly the most important), author of the series "Guides Mountains of Italy" CAI and Touring Club Fill in abundance 4 numbers ... even had time to see published only 2.
Odle / Sella / Marmolada - Pale di San Martino - Dolomiti di Brenta - Carnian Alps.
Yesterday I found an old library in Vercelli (the same one that had managed to procure, always in the same series, the monograph of the Alps Orobie) the last volume (Carnian Alps) was missing to close the circle of Castiglioni.
I leave, below some brief excerpt from his diaries.
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Celso said that the essence of mountaineering is a risk: I could not share his said, I felt love for the mountains down to a game crazy or absurd, but maybe I had misunderstood his claim that the end is not far from mine: the essence of ' Mountaineering is the conquest of one's life meter by meter. So basically you risk: but the risk is not an end in itself but only a necessary condition to win.
The strongest man is he who can rule the world, but he who can control himself.
Only in the mountains is great man, frank and honest: in the city, even the best individuals can not defend themselves from false ideologies of the bourgeoisie, hypocrisy and corruption.
"Your sympathy for his friend is hidden under a rough bark, around which you have to wear down your teeth. So buy your sympathy delicacy and sweetness. "This is the true friendship: these are the relationships with Vitale and Celso.
My highest level is the fifth grade and is in a climb to fourth and fifth can I find the true enjoyment of climbing. ascents made in Manlius, and in fact even more with the Brahmins, I found the most enjoyment: ascents carried out with the spirit of 1929, with absolute safety, with perfect command of technique, which allowed me to feel completely at ease in any way. the only way you can enjoy climbing, and this is an end in itself. Up to the fifth grade climbs for the enjoyment of climbing: the sixth grade becomes the ambition to overcome that particular difficulty. The real climbing stops at the fifth degree: in the fifth grade and was arrested the biggest climber Paul Preuss.
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