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CASSIN



Between the walls of this pit, which comprise the Torrioni Magnaghi and Cigar, is affected by a long vertical groove. We leave the bags here, we help eachother with a hammer, nails and hooks, we tie a rope fifty feet, and so on. In the groove and do not encounter major difficulties from which we reach the fork, with two or three meters of split, we pass on the cigar.
I'm leading, and as the partner makes me safe, I move right to the edge of our stops at a crack. I look at the judge: for me. The attack directly, planting three nails, as well to make sure, I need for progression: there is plenty of footholds and the crack is quite steep. This brings to six or seven meters until the thin slit die under a small ledge in the corner I grabbed it with both hands, move right. I'm reaching out for an outlet, the key, return to former position.
"It's 'careful' warn his friend, even though there is no need to recall it. Since the outlet seems to me good, I gently stretched and grabbed. Then leave me hanging on the wall with overhanging and decisive move reach the edge. [...].
Gained the edge more easily lifts me up to a narrow shelf on which I assure you with a nail. Finally rest: the above steps have cost me no little effort.
"I come?" Asked Sora.
"Wait."
"How are you?" He adds.
"The wrong".
During the climb the words as well as their movements are kept to a minimum, nothing less and nothing more. Everything is functional. [...].
Allocation. Staying on the edge, lifts me up to a comfortable second landing, under another overhang. Find the spot where the nail to make sure which, but for the look and buttons, can not find it. I can drive one where the surface level of the balcony on the corner with the rock beyond the vertical. The nail enters singing and is very solid, but its location is not the most won. [...].
But it is time to resume the work. The rock for a while 'sticking salt, then, after the lip of the small cliff, take the configuration of a small dihedral, with negative slope and desperately packed. There are no cracks, no cracks or holes, nothing to do with the unique surface. And yet ... by trial and error I can fix a nail rim, so we decide to groped the technique called 'pyramid'. Sora s'aggancia to nail the landing and I, clinging to the iron that I have driven to the brink, I stand with one foot resting on the shoulder of Sora and the other the rock. [...].
brings me to the last serious obstacle, but I really do not have reason to succeed. Not indifferent to the hardships of the day, the steps of a higher order, the inexperienced and the rudimentary system of climbing we were exhausted. We were sure to win and we are forced to give up. Such a reality there must be a genius. Get back on the shoulders of the friend that is secured to the nail of the gallery, but ... nothing to do today. The Cigar pulling them there.
match lost? For now, but the beautiful way must be ours and it will be if we can renew the attempt. There caliamo with the bitter taste in the mouth of a waiver and a burning desire for revenge. WHEN?

About

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Ettore Castiglioni

a bit 'knows me knows how much esteem for the consortium has Castiglioni / Detassis. These two characters are tied on the rope high number of times and the understanding that it followed was unique in the history of mountaineering.
Together they opened a route very difficult day behind the other. Castiglioni was the first (and certainly the most important), author of the series "Guides Mountains of Italy" CAI and Touring Club Fill in abundance 4 numbers ... even had time to see published only 2.
Odle / Sella / Marmolada - Pale di San Martino - Dolomiti di Brenta - Carnian Alps.

Yesterday I found an old library in Vercelli (the same one that had managed to procure, always in the same series, the monograph of the Alps Orobie) the last volume (Carnian Alps) was missing to close the circle of Castiglioni.




I leave, below some brief excerpt from his diaries.
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Celso said that the essence of mountaineering is a risk: I could not share his said, I felt love for the mountains down to a game crazy or absurd, but maybe I had misunderstood his claim that the end is not far from mine: the essence of ' Mountaineering is the conquest of one's life meter by meter. So basically you risk: but the risk is not an end in itself but only a necessary condition to win.

The strongest man is he who can rule the world, but he who can control himself.

Only in the mountains is great man, frank and honest: in the city, even the best individuals can not defend themselves from false ideologies of the bourgeoisie, hypocrisy and corruption.

"Your sympathy for his friend is hidden under a rough bark, around which you have to wear down your teeth. So buy your sympathy delicacy and sweetness. "This is the true friendship: these are the relationships with Vitale and Celso.

My highest level is the fifth grade and is in a climb to fourth and fifth can I find the true enjoyment of climbing. ascents made in Manlius, and in fact even more with the Brahmins, I found the most enjoyment: ascents carried out with the spirit of 1929, with absolute safety, with perfect command of technique, which allowed me to feel completely at ease in any way. the only way you can enjoy climbing, and this is an end in itself. Up to the fifth grade climbs for the enjoyment of climbing: the sixth grade becomes the ambition to overcome that particular difficulty. The real climbing stops at the fifth degree: in the fifth grade and was arrested the biggest climber Paul Preuss.

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BUD SPENCER AND TERENCE HILL MASTERS

Dear Bud Spencer and Terence Hill
is a lot 'of time I had in mind to write a letter of apology
. When I was young, many years ago, I wanted to convince me that the film had to be above what even then was classified with stars and balls distinguishing between quality cinema, a silly definition movies and other so-called consumption which seems to me stupid presumptuous.
now reached that age where you can stay quietly on the edge of common sense I got the idea to save the world not only the culture and even the beauty that is also a pleasant opportunity, but we can really escape safely to decline of civilization if we practice the road of joy.
Gioia as the sharing of feelings of peace as a beautiful, elegant and honest laughter is also a fully-fledged work of art, which is good for the spirit and culture and also to health.
am happy to see the David di Donatello award for his career in 2010 Bud Spencer and Terence Hill, wonderful actors and amiable gentleman, unforgettable heroes of so many fantastic Adventures of playful irony and fun. They will remain forever in our love and history of quality films without asterisks. Ermanno Olmi

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DIHEDRAL

The best way to describe this impressive wall and the way that best characterizes it is to quote some passages written by Cesare Maestri and contained in the book " Climbing is my job ": "[...] The Dain
. This wall, you can not call it mountain, rises above Lake Toblino. On the east side of this buttress, Bruno Detassis opened in 1933, a difficult journey sixth-grade (Via Rod Organ ed.) The south wall of the curves of Limarò Dain looks and comes from the bed of the river Sarca rising to 400 meters. Four hundred feet of overhangs, roofs, areas of grass. A wall judged by many as impossible. I know already, in part, through two of my previous attempts. The first, went ahead for bad weather, with the Seventh sestogradista Bonvecchio, the second with the Florentine Paolo Melucci, national instructor of the CAI. Even the second time an attempt has remained so. There were two reasons for the trip: three teeth pulled for a flight of eight meters and the loss of the bag containing supplies and materials. Even without the incident of the pack, we could not continue to the pain that tortured me and prevented me to chew to keep me a bit 'under I was forced to swallow a few bites already chewed up by Paul. Dain
The walls of the wood finish, this leads to a plateau on which lies the small village of Ranzo.
I for one understand that this climb is not important mountaineering and is reduced to a purely acrobatic performance. But the thing I do not care. It 's a wall judged impossible and I do not like giving up the basis of judgments that they want to be absolute truths. The world the word impossible does not exist and I want to prove beginning with Dain. [...]."
The road was uphill from Baldessari with Claudio Cesare Maestri (captain of the alpine and commander of the platoon paratroopers of the "Tridentine") in 1957 referring to the wall for 4 days by heavy use of artificial means. During the climb Cesare Maestri Baldessari invited to take part in his upcoming expedition to Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Baldessari initially accepted but then the Ministry of Defence to prevent him from Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger accepted the proposal.
To identify this elegant line of ascent is sufficient to cover the back that Sarche climb to Madonna di Campiglio. The road has
athletic and strenuous climb but definitely satisfied. The advisability of repetition in the presence of other ropes to the risk of falling rocks. The information in our possession it appears that the path is today a little 'entry into obscurity ...